Always A Reason Why

I've written over 400 posts on this blog since it started about two and half years ago. I'm really proud of this blog too. But clearly, something is going on that's preventing me from writing as much as I used to. I hate it. The same ideas are not flowing through me anymore and I've really been asking myself, "well, why?". I used to fluff the question off assuming that I've simply run out of ideas. The more I think about it though I know that's only a half truth. My best guess is that I feel less connected to Erik's career.

It even feels hard to write that. But it's true. Erik worked for Jean-Georges since he started as a cook, still in culinary school. Jean-Georges was the front runner above all over fine dining chefs and restauratuers in my mind. I idolized him. And why not? I watched as my husband quickly fell in love with a career and lifestyle through the school of Jean-Georges. As Erik was training and learning I was reading the same blogs that all the industry people and foodies do-belonging to neither group. I was going along for the ride and loving every minute of it. I labeled myself first not as a friend, wife, or woman, but as a chef's wife.I even considered making the label permanent with a chefwife tattoo. I don't even like tattoos. When the Bragard uniform catalogue came in the mail I would quickly turn to the page of Jean-George and sigh in gratitude that he was taking care of us-mind it in a far distant way.

Things are different now. Not only does Erik work for a new company, in a new position but I've become less connected to what he's doing. I still turn through the Bragard catalogue to see Laurent Tourondel there, but it's not the same. I just don't ask about employee drama anymore, I've stopped reading the blogs altogether, and I see myself now as a unique person first, chefwife, friend and sister later. I do also have to say that when Erik joined BLT it was 24 hours before I knew I was pregnant so I'm sure that has something to do with it too.

I am still completely 100% supportive of my husband-just not wrapped up and overwhelmed in his work. Before he travels I get all of the hotel information for him such as: do they have a gym...laundry service...shuttle to the airport...shuttle to the restaurant...? Really though, that's also for me to have a little peace of mind. I eat at the BLT restaurants and ask lots of questions about this new restaurant group. I still stand tall when people ask, "What does your husband do?".

What does all of this mean for the Desperate Chefs' Wives? I am still completely committed to the connections I've made with other wives and girlfriends. I would love for the blog to last forever, but I am struggling to write since it's not on the forefront of my mind anymore. And now that I've been direct with you-what will you think of me?

Food is Love,
Hilary

Goodbye Perry St

Ch-ch-ch-changes...

Big changes around here. After working for Jean -Georges since his externship at the CIA, Erik is moving on to new challenges. And I have a feeling this is harder for me than it is for him. First of all, (agree or disagree) you all know how involved I am in my chef's career. I've met so many people in the past 7 years. Most of the cooks, chefs, GMs, and wives have come and gone as the industry tends to dictate, but I'll be continuing to connect with some dear friends long after my midnight visits to Perry St cease to occur. I'm not sure how how the new company will react to my blog so to keep on the safe side I'll keep some things on the qt for a while. What I can say is that I'm about to deal with something many of you know about: traveling. I knew this when Erik accepted his new job, and I'm going to do my best to get through it. Expect most posts to come in September when Erik will be gone for 4 weeks. Yep.

I'm thrilled for the new job and apprehensive at the same time, especially about the traveling. But I'll count on you ladies to help get me through that-should I need it. August brings two fresh starts: Erik's new job and a new school year.

January 2006, New Fulton Fish Market

Original Perry St crew from right to left:

Erik Battes, Justin Basdarich, Greg Brainin, Paul Eschbach, Greg Vernick, Jean-Georges

Believe it or not, three and half years later and all theses guys (now except Erik) still work somewhere within the JGV company. Despite what some may say, JG is a great man to work for. And who better to take over the chef de cuisine position at Perry St than Jean-Georges's own son, Cedric.

Adios Perry St.

Food is Love,

Hilary

Many Thanks

It was so nice to be supported for the spring auction at my school. Thank you to Alyssa Palombino and her chef husband Mathieu Palombino of Motorino in Brooklyn for their generous $100 gift certificate. Thank you also Jessica Conant Park and Susan Conant for their signed book set. And thank you to Jean -Georges and Johnny Iuzzini for their signed cookbooks. The auction is going to be successful because of you all!

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Holy Recession Special! - Four courses at Perry St. for $35!

Time are tough for some, and downright awful for others right now. And nothing cures and comforts as much as a delicious meal. And no better place to give you a taste, quite literally-of something soothing, than Perry St.

Perry St.’s $35 dinner prix fixe has changed its format from 2 savory courses and dessert, to 3 savory courses and dessert. Yes, 3 savory courses AND a dessert! It highlights some of their most delicious food at an unbelievable price. They will change this menu frequently to keep it interesting.

Currently, the menu will be:

- Cream of Tomato Soup, Sourdough, Basil and Cheddar
- Slow Baked Cod, Aromatic Black Beans, Sake and Cilantro
- Fried Chicken, Smoked Gravy, Roasted Sweet Potato and Lemon Confit
- Warm Valhrona Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream

The menu is available every day from 5:30 – 6:30 and 9:30 – 11:00.

Jean Georges has a similar deal. The 4 course meal at the 4 star rated Jean Georges on Central Park West, is offered Monday-Thursday from 5:30-6:00 and 10:00-11:00 PM. (This meal would normally be upwards of $100 per person.

These deals are generous to say the least so take advantage of this fantastic offer soon.

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Almost As Good As a Chef

James, 31

Time Out just came out with there "Singles" issue so if you're looking for love in NYC, have a look. Time Out says that these fellas are worthy of a date. I can't speak for all the singles, (there are over 100) but I know James. And James is a 10. As Jean-Georges's director of restaurant services, James works all of JG's eateries and I've been lucky enough to run into James at Spice Market, Matsugen, and of course my main squeeze: Perry St.

James is always dressed to the nines and treats me like I'm part of the family every time I step into JG establishment. The perfect balance of pleasant conversation and privacy during my meal. But don't take my word for it. If this gentleman seems to be your type-email him yourself. jamesl@tonypersonals.com

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

The Check's Been Taken Care Of

If you're a chef's wife you know that one major and often overlooked perk of the job is free food! Sometimes I eat at restaurants thinking I'll get a free drink or two taken off the menu and then the bill comes and I feel like an idiot. Then again sometimes you think no one notices you're eating there and all of the sudden you're leaving a tip on a ONE CENT check. Well, I've quickly learned not to expect anything.

I have to say that working for Jean-Georges has given Erik and I plenty of times to be thankful when we eat at JGV family restaurants. I mean, the guy's not flying me to Vancouver to try his new dishes or anything, but Jean-Georges takes care of his own. So what to do when the server comes to your table and says that the bill has been taken care of? Not only have they comp'd your meal, but they sent extra courses, wine, and dessert. And since I never carry more than six bucks in cash, I have to sheepishly ask the server to run a bill for 1 penny, then leave a debit tip on that.

How to tip? How much do you leave when there is no bill? How much do you leave when they send tons of extra courses? How much do you tip when the service was awful for that matter? I always worry that I don't tip enough. And now with the restaurant industry suffering in NYC I feel a need to tip even more since other people who aren't able to-aren't.

What do you do when the check comes? Check out my new poll, too.

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Jean-Georges Shares Christmas Love/Holiday Deals

Mr. Vongrichten, finally posted a blog again. He's spreading some of this prix fixe deals from Perry St's yearound deal to all his NY eateries. Hopefully this will bring some people back out to eat again this season.

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Apple Confit Update

It seems that a couple people are going to make Jean-Georges's apple confit-hooray! I think I'm going to make a smaller version tomorrow. I'm such a recipe cheater; I never follow the directions all the way. Since I don't have Granny Smith apples, I'll use Fiji. And since I don't have 15, I'll shrink my recipe to make it with only 7 apples. I cheat!

Let me know how yours turn out!
DCW_NYC
-Hilary-


Here is the full Apple Confit (said "confee") Recipe:

INGREDIENTS:
2 cups sugar
5 oranges
15 Granny Smith apples

DIRECTIONS:
1. Melt 1 cup sugar in a saute pan over medium heat, stirring only occasionally, until it bubbles and turns golden brown. Immediately pour it into a standard 9x5-inch loaf pan, or a 3-inch deep, 9-inch round cake pan. Swirl the melted sugar around so that it coats the bottom, and set it aside. It will harden while you prepare the oranges and apples.

2. Use a zester to remove the orange zest in long, thin strips. Place the zest in a saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil, then cook for 1 minute. Drain, then refresh under cold running water for a minute or two. Drain again.

3. Peel the apples, then halve and core them. Cut them by hand or with a mandoline into even sliches about 1/8 inch thick; keep the slices neatly stacked.

4. Using only flat pieces (discard the rounded ends), place a layer of apples neatly in the bottom of the loaf pan. cover with another layer, keeping the layers as level as possible, and pressing down to event them out. Sprinkle with a bit of the remaining 1 cup sugar, then some of the zest. Repeat, adding sugar and zest every 2 or 3 layers.

5. When you get to the top of the pan, keep the lines straight and continue to build layers beyond the top, going about 3 or 4 inches above the pan. Cover the top with plastic, then wrap the whole pan in aluminum foil. Place it in a shallow tray - it will drip - and refrigerate at least overnight, preferably for 24 hours.

6. Drain the juice from the tray (you may reserve it for sorbet or other uses), then unwrap the pan. Drain the excess liquid, then wrap the pan in a double layer of aluminum foil. Place the pan in a large, deep roasting pan, and fill the roating pan with water halfway up the sides of the loaf pan. Bake at 300 degrees fahrenheit for 5 hours, then check: The confit is done when all the apple slices are dark brown, it has shurnk to fill only about 3/4 of the mold, and a thin-bladed knife pierces it easily. Cooking time is usually between 5 and 6.5 hours; check and replenish the water bath (use boiling water) as necessary.

7. Unwrap the confit, cool, then chill for several hours, up to 2 days. Slice thinly and serve.

JGV on Regis and Kelly

Mr. Vongerichten graced the studio kitchen on LIVE today, making an apple confit and lemongrass turkey. The apple confit actually seemed easy enough for me to do. Peel 15 apples, slice them, layer them over some caramel in a pan, add some orange peels and sugar, cook for 4 hours...that's it! But I'm not feeling brave enough to go near a turkey anytime soon.

I'm off to a Balloon Party tonight to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving Parade balloons get inflated. It's a creative party theme and I'm really looking forward to it.

Happy Thanksgiving, All!!

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Chef Mumbles...Only Worse

Talking in your sleep is one thing, but getting up in the middle of the night and changing into work clothes is sickening. Erik! Come on, you need a vacation.

Last night Erik woke up, took off his flannel pants, put on his work pants, then went back to sleep for another three hours. Really? This is getting a little out of hand. He did this once before and actually started to leave the apartment, but that was over 4 years ago. I thought the chef-sleep walking was over.

Jean-Georges, if you're reading this: give my husband a day off. Oh, and I heard you can ice skate. There's a rink on my street, can you cross the Hudson and teach me some cool moves? I really want to learn an axel.

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Dining Worries

The chef and I will be celebrating our 3 year wedding anniversary in two months and we are trying to decide on a location to celebrate. Last year we went to Jean Georges and it was fabulous! But you know me, I could eat there to celebrate Christmas, Thanksgiving, Easter, May Day, Secretaries Day...Anyways, this year Erik made the suggestion of skipping the gift giving tradition and going to Per Se. As much as I'd love to go there, I think $275 per person is a little much for my budget, even without spending money on gifts! I can't seem to think of another place that is nice and romantic and not going to give me buyer's remorse as I'm signing the check. Erik suggested the new menu at Momofuko Ko for lunch since it's about 14 course and more money than their dinner menu. (?) No offense to Mr. Chang, but there is nothing less romantic than a noodle bar. At lunchtime.

Any ideas?

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Chefwife Wine

thank, Egullet.

A while back I heard about a wine called MV, named after Jean-Georges' wife, Marja. As it turns out, this wine is made exclusively for the Jean-Georges restaurants. This pinot noir is grown and bottled in Oregon at the Ponzi Vineyards. I wish I had more information on the wine, but since it's bottled only for the JG restos, there is not much press on it. If Jean-Georges or Marja are reading this, please email me! I've heard this wine is fantastic and I wish I could get my hands on some. I wouldn't mind having my initials on a bottle of delicious pinot noir. Actually I prefer something white.

By the way, I know NOTHING about wines. I wish I did but it seems so overwhelming. I thought about taking a class at the FCI, but again I get so nervous that I won't be able to contain all the wine knowledge in my little head, let alone tell the difference between grapes and regions. Though, it feels like my "duty" as a chef's wife to know all I can about dining, which includes wine. Hmm, maybe I'll start with etiquette classes. I could handle that.

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

He's My Favorite

Obviously those of you who read this blog have a chef you hold dear to your heart. He or she may be your husband, wife, son, father, neighbor, or all time crush. But I want to know about your number two. Who is the chef (besides your husband) who you adore? Does he host a tv show? Does he boast a soothing European accent? Does he cook the daily special at your local bistro?

My number two shouldn't be a shocker to most who know me. Jean-Georges Vongerichten is my favorite chef, besides Erik. Sunday night at Matsugen I was lucky enough to bump into Mr. Vongerichten. Ahhh, Jean-Georges. I don't know exactly what it is, but I just love the guy. I certainly don't have a crush him, but I explained it to Erik in this way: Jean Georges has supported and guided my husband for the last five years and anyone who cares for Erik in the same way I do deserves my appreciation. And when I think of JG, he's more than an Alsatian born restaurateur. The idea of JG is a combination of the culinary world that has been so good to us, Greg Brainin and the end product (thus far), Perry St.


DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

The Great Gathering of Chefs

Alan "Battman" Batt is well known photographer whose stunning "food porn" photos are back again-this time in the form of soup. His last book featured sandwiches from well known NYC chefs including Nobu Matsuhisa, Wylie Dufresene,and of course, my favorite Jean Georges. His two newest books: The Colors of Dessert and Soup will be debuting at a charity event this September. The Great Gathering of Chefs benefiting the Children's Storefront , a tuition free school in Harlem. Of course I am 100% behind this event as it supports chefs and children, my two favorite things. Erik will be there signing the first 100 Soup books. His pea soup, which is now served at Jean Georges, will be featured.

The event will feature a "meet the chefs" portion for both the soup and dessert book. There will be over 125 chefs signing books followed by a tasting. The tasting only is $100 and the tasting plus the book signing and a book is $250. Save 10% if you order before August 1st.

photo courtesy www.thegreatgatheringofchefs.com

DCW_Columbus, Ohio

-Hilary-

Matsugen, My Love

Photo courtesy: Eater

Matsugen (pronounced with a hard g sound) was fantastic! I know I'm a JG lover but I stand behind Matsugen. No sightings of Jean-Georges which was terribly disappointing but the staff more than made up for my lack of JG love. The servers were right on and the managers were attentive and polite. I was told that all the tableware was from Japan; each dish was beautiful.


Chefwife J, L and I were able to go into the kitchen and say hello to Chef Kyle Herman. What a charmer. He gave a tour of the fish tanks that divide one portion of the dining room and the kitchen. There are 4 tanks alternating between salt and fresh water. They had names for them all , some of which were originals from 66.

I am a self proclaimed NONfoodie so I'm not going to sit here throwing food adjectives at you like a pitching machine in a batting cage. But I will tell you my favorite part of the meal and things I think you should order (should you like my advice): deep fried shrimp cake & shitake mushroom (18.00), black cod with miso (22.00) (AMAZING AND SO WORTH THE PRICE!), Kizami-Kitsume fried tofu hot soba with scallion (14.00), and of course the sushi. For dessert: parfait, something with tomato (I forgot the name) and the grapefruit (it's so much fun!). Oh, and start with the Japanese pickles (5.00), they were so tasty/crunchy I could have eaten them by the bucket. In fact they inspired Chefwife J, L and I to do some summer pickling soon.

I loved it.
DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

Matsugen Opening Night

I love my chef!

He got chefwife J and I a table at Matsugen tomorrow night! I am so excited. I've been hearing all these things about this place and it has finally opened. JGM closed 66 a while back and it is now being reopened as Matsugen: an authentic Japanese eatery with hand cut soba noodles. I'll be sure to give updates on the evening sometime on Sunday. Jean Georges is flying in early from the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen to be there opening night. I hope I see him. He's my Alsatian heartthrob.

In other news, Eater didn't appreciate my lookalike photos. Screw them. I'm so annoyed too, because I thought mine were wicked good. Oh well.

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

I'm headed to HOBOKEN tonight for a friend's birthday. NOT somewhere I usually go, we'll see how this goes..

I got tagged. Love that Widow.

The lovely, beautiful, recycling chefswidow tagged me.

The Rules:
Once you’ve been tagged, you have to write a blog with 10 weird, random, facts, habits or goals about yourself. At the end, choose 6 (but I'm changing it to 3) people to be tagged, list their names & why you tagged them. Don’t forget to leave them a comment saying “You’re it!” & to go read your blog. You cannot tag the person that tagged you, so since you’re not allowed to tag me back; let me know when you are done so I can go read YOUR weird/random/odd facts, habits and goals.

1. I wish the NYC resto scene moved to Columbus, Ohio so I could live near my folks and BBQ on the weekends in my yard with animals and grass and space.


2. My chef logs into this blog account to fix all my errors. He knows better than to tell me about them, he just sneaks in and does it while he's at work. Don't tell Jean-Georges.


3. I don't have a large circle of friends and I like it that way. Please don't suggest that I "network" or "enlarge my social circle". I just don't need that.


4. I obsessively search through Craigslist at least 3 times a week. For what, I don't really know yet.


5. One of my most amazing accomplishments is this blog.


6. I was extremely bitter when I wasn't in the Desperate Chefs' Wives photo shoot in Page Six Magazine. At the time I had to remain anonymous; instead of wearing a gown with my hair and make up done, posing with some amazing chef's wives, I got a generic shadow outline. Maybe there will be another magazine that wants to do another article and I can include all my new chef wife friends. Oh, how about this idea: The wives of Jean Georges's Chefs? Yes!


7. I drove across this stunning country of ours from California to New York with Erik when I was 20. We hardly had any money, only a car full of possessions each, and a lot of naive dreams that actually turned out to be not-so-naive. When we arrived in Harrison, NY it was creepy and dark and stormy and I cried all night. I can't believe I stayed. Who was that girl?


8. I dance every single day.
9. I love babies a lot more than I allow people to know. I just don't want everyone asking when I'm going to get prego. I think being (getting) prego is a really intimate experience and no one needs to know until after the fact. I'd love to start in a year, (or two-I have to put that because of Erik) but I'd also really love to adopt or at the very least become a foster parent. My aunt and uncle have four sons of their own and on top of that they have been the foster parent to some wonderful, lovable children. I just think the world of them.
10. It was difficult for me to write this list, more so than I thought it would be.

You're It!:

1.Nurse Rosen because she's wicked cool, LA style.

2. Go Erin Go! because she's a running wife.

3. Eat Me because she takes great pictures.

Honorary Tag: Jean Georges. I can guarantee that he won't do it, but hey-it's worth a shot. Not really.

DCW_NYC

-Hilary-

Don't forget I'm on the radio tomorrow! (see previous post)

Obsessiveness

In the great scheme of things chefs are incredible people. I could go on all day about the wonders and amazements of a chef. But I'm not. I want to talk about those habits that make chefs so irritating slash lovable. Mostly irritating though.



The blog has touched on this in one form or another but let's really attack this, shall we? I don't know whether to blame it on the fast paced service rush or the meticulous demands of diners and foodies, but chefs are obsessive. Some might bring it to the level of an OCD but most are just adamant about having and doing certain things. Take my chef for instance, he's got several obsessions some of which are related to cooking and some are just unexplainable.

1. Cleanliness. This is definitely something he was taught through coming up the ranks of Jean Georges working under Greg Brainin. However, this applies ONLY the to the kitchen at Perry St and NOT our own kitchen. Of course when it's time to get the shiny grease off-he's great at it.


2. Drinks. Erik can't make the 20 train ride via the PATH to get to work without bringing a drink. He has a drinking problem. If we leave the house, for any reason, he brings a drink in a plastic bottle, aluminum can, or glass bottle. Baby. (...he'll make me take that off...well I'm not going to!) Our fridge may not have a lot of food in it by the end of the week-but we've always got drinks! Soda, Snapple, Gatorade, Milk, WATER, tea, and coffee take up most of the space. His night stand on any given day will have at least 4 bottles of something. Luckily, he's not big on the alcohol. yes!


3. Video Games. I've said it before but it bears repeating. Erik is crazy for video games. We've got an XBOX, XBOX 360, Wii, Original Nintendo, PSP, Sega Game Gear, and TWO Nintendo DS Games. Plus all the extra controllers, microphones, games, carriers, chargers and whatever else. Not only that, but he subscribes to and reads TWO different video game magazines. PAH-LEAZE. I've seen this in other chefs as well. But come on, Erik is turning 25 this month-a bit old for these toys? But he swears, "The demographic for the games I play is ages 18-35" Uh, huh. Right.


4. Kitchen Gadgets. And I KNOW there are many who would agree that their chefs share this similar obsession. His lists of kitchen "needs" (aka WANTS) is about a mile long and we'd need a massive kitchen to store them all. My SECOND slow cooker is in the coat closet. We have two coffee makers and we hardly use them. I'm the banker 'round these parts, so I'm pretty tight on the money flow thus limiting the amount of gadgets we have.

So which came first, the obsessions that leave these men left with nothing else but a culinary career, or the industry that drives them to becomes irrational obsessive men??



Thanks to Katrina for bringing this great topic idea to me!

DCW_NYC

-Hilary-

Burn Out!

As you all know chefs endure some of the most gruesome working conditions. They work 25 hours a day, 7 days a week, with little or no breaks. They are forced to work at light speed to put out immaculate food piping hot to hundreds of diners each night. In the rush of dinner service it's inevitable that even the most seasoned chefs will get a few cuts and burns.

When Erik first began working for Jean Georges he came home with massive burns on his fingers, hands, wrists, and even arms. Of course now that he has been cooking for some time he gets burned and cut much less. But he still gets them. It usually happens when he's working too fast and makes a careless mistake. (Oh, I hope he doesn't kill me for writing this.)

While browsing through my picture files I realized I don't have any of my chef's burns or cuts documented. If you've got pictures of nasty or oozing battle scars please email them to me so I can share them with the world. Perhaps you've got a funny story about a wound-please share. Have you ever been burned? I burned the inside of my wrist (no scars thank goodness) while I was dumping a pot of Mexican chicken soup into a bowl. I almost dropped the massive pot. OUUUUCH!

DCW_NYC
-Hilary-

ChefMumbles

I'm going to start a new recurring post topic based on the things my chefhusband says in his sleep. This all started about 5 years ago when he was on his externship at Jean-Georges. One night he got up, put his coat on and opened the bedroom door. I asked where he was going and he said he had to "inject baby tomatoes with a vinaigrette" at work. Uh....psycho! Ever since then I have been startled in the night to discover Erik talking about all sorts of food/work things. Sometimes I mess with him and tell him the purveyors never came and we are down two cooks. But sometimes I just say, "Don't worry TK [his counterpart chef] handled it".

So the latest in chefmumbles:

"I need dill and salsify"

Whatever, chef. I'm on it.

DCW_NYC

-H-